Ascorbyl Palmitate

skin protecting antioxidant

overview

Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is a stable, lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that is used in skincare products for its ability to protect the skin from free radicals, stimulate collagen production, and reduce hyperpigmentation. It is less irritating than other forms of vitamin C and can penetrate the skin better.

benefits

Antioxidant properties, Stimulates collagen production, May reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, Helps blend vitamins A, C & D into a suspension, Effective collagen builder, Free-radical scavenging ingredient essential to healthy skin, Penetrates the skin and delivers antioxidants faster than the water soluble forms of Vitamin C, Prevents cellular aging by inhibiting the cross-linking of collagen, oxidation of proteins, and lipid peroxidation, Works synergistically with the antioxidant Vitamin E, More stable than L-ascorbic acid, Less irritating than other forms of vitamin C, May help to improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation, minimise the signs of aging and support collagen production.

Skin suitability

Suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive skin

concerns

May promote lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity following UVB radiation

precautions

Lower concentrations should be used in leave-on formulations

source

Synthetically derived from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid

CIR

Acknowledged the potential benefits associated with antioxidants such as Vitamin C

EWG

Recognized it a Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) chemical preservative

additional info

AP is a more stable form of vitamin C, making it less likely to cause irritation. It is also oil-soluble, which allows it to penetrate the skin more easily. Ascorbyl Palmitate is a compound composed of Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and palmitic acid, a naturally occurring fatty acid. Ascorbyl Palmitate is a restricted ingredient in EWG VERIFIED products and cannot be used without adequate substantiation. Ascorbyl palmitate has vitamin C activity approximately equal to that of L-ascorbic acid. However, since ascorbyl palmitate is lipid-soluble, it can penetrate the skin better than L-ascorbic acid and other water-soluble forms of vitamin C. Unlike L-ascorbic acid, it does not readily degrade in formulas containing water. The optimal pH of formulations containing ascorbyl palmitate is 5.5, which is around the skin’s natural pH. This makes in a less irritating alternative to other vitamin C serums. Studies have indicated that ascorbyl palmiate as well as many other forms of vitamin C are not as potent or well used by the skin as L-ascorbic acid.