Dicetyl Phosphate is a complex mixture of diesters of cetyl alcohol and phosphoric acid. It is a mild cleansing agent and emulsifier used in skincare products. It helps control the thickness of liquids and keeps water and oil phases from separating. It is considered safe for use in cosmetics and is often derived from coconut. Crodafos™ CS20A is a high actives (50%) primary emulsifier designed to enhance viscosity control – especially suited for pourable emulsions with high active loads (liquid foundations) or other medium to low viscosity products such as body sprays, milks and depilatories.
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Dicetyl Phosphate can be plant- or animal-derived or synthetic. Paula’s Choice Skincare uses the plant-derived form which comes from coconut. Crodafos™ CS20A is derived from plant and petrochemical sources.
Safe for use in cosmetics, subject to concentration or use limitations
Low Use Restrictions
Dicetyl phosphate is made from portions from cetyl alcohol and phosphoric acid to form an ingredient that functions as surfactant and emulsifier. Its primary role is to help control the viscosity of liquid cosmetic formulas as well as provide sensory improvements. It has a natural affinity for skin due to its phosphoric acid component’s relation to the phospholipids (a type of fatty acid) present in skin. Dicetyl phosphate is typically part of a blend with fatty alcohols and other phosphate ingredients made with cetyl alcohol. These blends have a nice synergy while that helps stabilize formulas while also being gentle on skin. Dicetyl phosphate is considered safe as used in cosmetics. Usage levels in leave-on products range from 0.2–4% and 0.038–1% in rinse-off products. Amounts up to 80% are considered non-irritating on skin. Crodafos™ CS20A is naturally substantive to the skin and imparts conditioning benefits. It has a wide pH tolerance and requires neutralisation which can be done in situ.
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